The Rain in Spain (o “La Lluvia en Sevilla”)

Two days ago, while walking 30 minutes to my first class in a torrential downpour, my umbrella broke in two places. Later the wind was so strong it almost ripped the umbrella out of my hands and tossed it into the Guadalquivir River, which would have been okay since it was a pathetic sight anyway. Today I finally stopped being lazy and made my way through yet another downpour to the 2 euro store (it’s like a dollar store but, in true European fashion, more expensive!) where I bought a new umbrella with Chinese writing on the label. That should have tipped me off. Not five minutes later, as I sidestepped small lakes proudly touting my new umbrella, the bottom of the fake wood handle popped off and landed in a puddle. Fortunately, I was able to recover it, screw it back on, and continue my trek to my casa, where a smiling senora, a satisfying dinner, and my space heater awaited me.

The purpose of this story: The rain in Spain neither stays mainly on the plain, nor is purely marvelous. Let’s just say this is not what I had in mind when I read about the glorious Mediterranean weather.

On February 14, as a way of turning my love for Spanish into action, I decided to stop speaking English with people in Spain. (Actually, it was a week into the regular session of classes, nearly one month since my arrival in Spain, and exactly three months until my departure.) But the point is, I wasn’t gaining fluency as quickly as I would have liked, so it was time for drastic measures- Spanish only. Now, this sounds easy enough- after all, it’s Spain, so why wouldn’t I be speaking Spanish 24/7? But the problem is that I interact with my fellow study abroad students, Americans, far more than I do with Spaniards. Walking to classes, in classes, at “extracurricular activities,” on excursions, I’m surrounded by Americans who yap away in English. Admittedly, sticking to Spanish is difficult. There are so many useful words you discover you don’t know after six years of Spanish classes. By the time you’ve found the right words, funny stories are no longer funny. You avoid expressing wishes and doubts like the plague. You make exceptions and use English because you don’t want to screw up important information, because you’re in a rush, because you’re tired. Even your best efforts are easily foiled when the person you’re trying to have a conversation with responds in impeccable, fluent English. Despite these obstacles, I’m going to push forward with my goal, not because I’m a particularly determined person (well, stubborn maybe) but because I have yet to find a shortcut to fluency. If anyone finds one, by all means, let me know.

Finally, a shout out to my stars: the people who, even though I don’t always see them, are always there and don’t let me forget it. For those of you who send me long facebook inbox messages and e-mails and cards and letters; for those of you who make me feel like I’m still in Happy Valley or Lansdale or Hyderabad- thank you. Especially here, where I encounter lots of friendly faces on a daily basis but nobody who really knows me, messages from the people I love mean a lot. All my Valentine’s Day love to y’all.

Córdoba, Lejana y Sola

In the past two weeks or so since I last updated my blog, I have...

• Played on a playground. (See-saw and swings- yes!)
  
• Obtained a library card at the public library. (Which is where I am currently typing from. Massive children's section + DVDs + wi-fi = happiness! I can already tell this is going to be my second home in Sevilla.)
• Found a community center with internet that is a 3-minute walk from where I live.
• Made friends whose idea of fun is not going to bars every night of the week. (This is more of a challenge than may sound.)
  
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• Eaten churros (which, to my surprise, are not sweet) dipped in hot chocolate (which is very thick and delicious, almost like liquid chocolate).
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• Eaten homemade french fries and delicious Spanish cheese. (Apparently my señora thought I didn't eat cheese for the first week.)
• Drank coffee and eaten cream-filled pastries. (If you couldn't tell, I am seriously deprived of fatty food here.)
• Visited two museums in Sevilla: the Museum of Flamenco Dance and the Museum of Fine Arts.
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• Visited an ancient mosque (the third biggest in the world, which was later converted into a cathedral like every other mosque in this country, of course) and a synagogue (the second photo below: note the Hebrew writing)- both in Córdoba, a historic little city that is a two-hour drive from Sevilla. I've never been a big history buff, but when you're standing in magnificent structures constructed in the 8th century that tell tales of the times and people they have withstood, it's hard not to be.
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• Met an Indian person who lives in Sevilla (when one day I noticed that the images on the sides of this store sign that I pass every day were not the Virgin Mary as I had previously assumed, but Goddess Lakshmi).
  
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• Skyped with friends from home.
• Written letters to family in India.
• Been asked by my señora and my professor if I'm happy here. (Maybe this is a sign that I appear depressed? But in general, I've found Spaniards to be very, very friendly people, so I think they were just showing that they care.)
• Followed more American celebrity gossip than I have in the past two years in the U.S..
• Watched more TV than I have in the past two years and gotten hooked on some Spanish TV shows. (Namely, a game show called "Pasapalabras," a drama called "Arrayán," and a comedy called "Escenas de Matrimonio.")
  
• Earned 3 credits towards my Spanish minor.
• Spent over 2o hours walking. (See that bridge on the right? I cross it several times a day)
  
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• Given up on trying to keep up with Spanish women and wear cute shoes, and reverted back to my comfy American sneakers.
• Become highly proficient at reading a map.
  
• Been spoiled by having three meals a day placed before me, having my laundry done, ironed, and folded for me, and not being allowed to sweep my own room.

In short, I feel well-fed and educated and comfortable and enchanted and connected with people I love, and thus, happy.

PS- Now that I have figured out how to embed photos in blog posts, I went back and added some to old posts, so go check them out!